Archives for January, 2010
Whining in puppies As puppies, it comes naturally: a terribly young puppy can whine without even realizing it when she’s hungry, tired, or cold. The mother dog can respond to this whining with milk, heat, and a safe place to sleep – and as time goes on, the puppy begins to realize the association between the two. This can be when she begins to whine deliberately, to notify her mom that one thing’s amiss or that she desires something. When you adopt your pup, she should be between eight and 10 weeks old. This is often the time that a puppy will either learn that whining doesn’t work with her new, human family; or, she’ll learn to use whining as a manipulative tool (of types) to encourage her new “mommy” (that’s you!) to allow her what she wants.
This can be why it’s generally advocated for you to leave your new puppy alone on her 1st night – if you respond to whining with positive attention (cooing, patting, sympathy, taking her out of the crate and cuddling her) how will she help but learn to whine till she gets what she wants? You’ll need to use your wisdom and good judgment, of course. For a extremely panic-stricken pup, she in all probability does really want some attention and affection, if only to distract her from the scariness of her unfamiliar new surroundings.
The trick is to respond in a very timely manner therefore that she doesn’t feel prefer it’s her whining that’s got the result (or else you’re conditioning her to whine whenever she needs something, which is paving the road to hell). For a puppy that’s operating herself up into a true frenzy of crying and whining, don’t feel like you have got to cold-bloodedly ignore her. By all means that, pay her a little bit of attention and calm her down – just initiate the contact when she’s not whining.
It’s not perpetually realistic to attend till she’s stopped whining altogether – contrary to common (albeit misguided) opinion, some puppies merely don’t stop whining and very can continue for hours on end. If you think that this might be the case, you don’t must prolong your pup’s misery: just wait til she’s stopped for even some seconds, then seize your moment and open the crate door. It’s not ideal, however beneath the circumstances, it’s doubtless the best you’ll be ready to manage.
Whining in adult dogs
Whining is not a natural form of communication between humans and dogs. Most dogs grow out of whining round the six-month age; if your dog is whining once this era, it suggests that she’s either doing it unconsciously, or she’s learned that it’s a useful motivatory tool to urge her something that she wants or needs. As an adult dog, there are a variety of reasons on why she would possibly be whining:
* In pain
* Bored/lonely
* Wants to travel outside
* Afraid/anxious
Your response to her whining extremely depends on the cause of it. Generally whining is justified, and will need a response – and typically, it’s simply plain manipulative. Different times it might be justified, but the response that comes most naturally won’t necessarily help your dog. To clarify things, the more common reasons for whining – and urged ways that for you to react – are listed below.
When she’s whining out of pain
A dog that starts whining abruptly, and then keeps it up steadily afterwards, could be whining out of pain.
This isn’t just restricted to older dogs: puppies and young dogs can be subjected to some pretty severe growing pains, so don’t rule out this possibility on the premise of age. If you think that your dog could be in pain, check her over to work out whether or not there’s any benefit to the present belief. Initial, check for the obvious signs: is she holding any paws off the bottom, or favoring a limb/side of her body? Check her face and body for scratches and splinters. Next, you’ll palpate her limbs and joints for inflammation (like arthritis) and possible injuries.
Remember to be terribly mild: if she’s in pain, you don’t need to create it worse. Merely rub your hands along every leg, pausing at the joints to give each one a gentle squeeze.
Run your hand down her tail to test for lumps and bumps, too. Even if you’ll’t realize something seriously amiss, if you’re thinking that she’s whining out of pain, a visit to the vet is briefly order.
When she’s whining out of boredom and/or loneliness You’ll be in a position to tell if this can be the cause as a result of she’ll be wandering around the house (probably following you around, or pacing about the room you’re in), whining aimlessly and without direction (i.e. she’s whining to herself).
The simplest cure for a dog that’s whining out of boredom could be a fast shot of exercise: take her out for a brisk walk when you can, and on a additional general level, strive to ramp up her daily exercise quotient. A tired dog is sort of never a bored dog.
For a dog that’s whining from loneliness, you’ll must try your best to spend a lot of quality, interactive time with her. If you don’t have a heap of spare time to spend along with your dog, then make the time that you do pay along very count: play, groom, train, cuddle.
When she’s whining out of fear/anxiety
Normally, it’ll be fairly simple to tell whether she’s whining out of concern or anxiety. When she’s afraid, it means there’s an instantaneous cause to her concern – sort of a thunderstorm or a windy afternoon that’s rattling the windowpanes and spooking her a bit.
If she’s anxious
it means that there’s no direct, tangible cause for her edginess – she might be a small amount on edge because you’re a bit stressed and he or she’s feeding off your energy, or perhaps there’s been a amendment to her daily routine (she didn’t get her traditional morning walk, for example). Without spending any more time quibbling pedantically over semantics, your response to the current type of whining ought to perpetually be one in all discouragement. Don’t attempt to punish or correct her for whining out of worry or anxiety – that will simply increase her stress, making her feel worse and creating the whining worse, too.
Instead, merely ignore her. It’s a touch hard to try and do at initial – of course, it will feel like the smallest amount natural reaction in the planet! However it very is the best issue for you to do. If you lend unwonted credence to your dog’s mood with an excessive reaction – patting, sympathy, cooing – she won’t be comforted; she’ll actually be a lot of worried, as a result of you’ve simply validated her fear. If it appears to her like you think she’s got a smart reason to be worried/afraid – and if you react with comforting words and soothing pats, that’s how it’ll come across – then she’ll be additional afraid. Not less. So during this case, you need to ignore the whining outright.
Don’t molly-coddle her; instead, distract her with play, or run through a fast obedience routine. Get her pondering one thing else.
If she desires to travel outside
If your dog’s whining as a result of she desires to go outside, initial of all you ought to provide yourself – and her – a huge pat on the back: it’s the sign of a genuinely well-trained dog. She needs to go badly enough to be whining concerning it, but she knows not to try and do it inside – and she’s sensible enough to strive and let you recognize that she needs to go out, too. This one’s straightforward: if she’s standing near the door, or just has That Expression (if you’ve had her for a whereas, you’ll grow to grasp That Expression – it’s totally different for every dog, but most homeowners are ready to easily and properly interpret it as meaning, “Let me out – now!”), you should let her out. It’s as easy as that.
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Jan 31, 2010 | | Dog Behavior Problems
Puppies’ educational training courses are very popular. Steady increase in interest rate shows the understanding of the need to work with the dog by the owners. But many owners have question arisen: what to do after the last lesson of the course is worked out? After all to conduct “adult” dog training is too early but not to train a puppy at all means to erase the results of all the work. The answer is straightforward: to train the puppy.
What was the purpose of educational training? You had to develop initial skills of obedience and teach the puppy to exercise regularly, to the physical and psychological stress. It was not a question of clear controllability making – to achieve trouble-free performance skills in this age is impossible. You can see its examples every day:
- Your pet has started to sit on a command confidently, but if a familiar (or unfamiliar) dog had appeared in its field of view, it “forgets” everything it had been taught;
- A puppy can step up to you after your beckoning and beautifully seat in front of you, but if he is “busy” looking for favorite toys, he does not simply hear your command;
- Dog is walking beside and you virtually do not use leash jerks, but if a noisy car has driven near, your pet just may try to run away without paying any attention to you then.
In all these cases we are talking about work in terms of distracting stimuli. And the reason for the dog’s strong diversion is not only in the lack of training success, but also because its nervous system is just not ready for a normal response to such stimuli so far.
Your puppy is happy when works, perform all your commands and is glad because of the promotion. But after 15 minutes passed (the time may vary), it suddenly loses interest in the work of every kind, not only ceases to respond to commands, but also on food reinforcement. This means that puppy has just tired (not physically, it is a stress on the nervous system). Endurance and the ability to work during long time and reliably also depend on the age and the degree of experience.
Therefore, all the disadvantages described above are not because of your failure. The precariousness of the work of a puppy is a normal phenomenon, because of which do not make a tragedy. In order to resolve these shortcomings and to teach the dog to work well and smoothly, you need such two things as time and training.
Over time, everything becomes more or less clear. Independently on how you would study with your pet, you should not count on the reliability of the work until the age of one. In practice of the dog training service the case often occurs when for one reason or another some begin to train a dog at an early age. For example, you can observe how the animal in the age of 5 or 6 months can be included in group. Yes, this puppy can have a wonderful innate ability, an excellent nervous system, and learning abilities. But it would be foolish to bring the final examination of such a dog to the general requirements. In practice, the inspection usually goes to some compromises, trying to see not what a dog is busy with now, but what can make the trainer with the dog in 2-3 months. And it is regardless of the fact whether investigative or special service is in question.
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Jan 10, 2010 | | Personal Puppy Dog Tales
A young dog just can not be reliably controllable under all circumstances. It is necessary to know and consider this.
One of the main conditions for making persistent skills is training.
Training should be conducted aiming to:
Make the dog work in conditions of strong distracting stimuli.
Bring developed reflexes to persistent skills.
Develop dynamic stereotypes as the reaction onto a command and environment.
The last point should be explained in greater detail. Imagine that during the walk you usually go to the store (for example, to buy bread). It is clear that in order to avoid conflicts your dog should be left at the door. What are you doing? You give the command “sit”, after setting a little dog aside to the side (so as not to interfere with passers-by, and that they did not interfere with the dog). For reliability, you may throw the loop of short leash on the fence or on some pin sticking out of the ground etc. Even if the dog falls through, it will be kept with the leash. It would be preferably for you to monitor the dog’s behavior through the shop’s window in order to have possibility to correct it in time. You look at the animal carefully, leaving for the store, and the puppy understands that you are serious here.
Firstly, the whole this process is quite complicated. But how will this event look like in 2-3 months? You will approach to the store, to the same place; will give the command “sit” then, throw the leash and boldly go into the room, not looking back. The dog will be angry and sit down and wait for you. Two months later, everything will look different. You will approach to the same place (the dog will be without a leash), you will not give any instruction and will not stop. A dog will sit without giving of any command, and, lazily glancing from side to side, will wait for you.
What happened? A dynamic stereotype has developed as a reaction on the command and the situation first, and just on the situation then. Repeating this technique every day, you have achieved reliable action of the animal under a particular circumstance. Such repetition is a real training (though, it seems that you just go to buy bread).
To repeat the conditions of these course exercises is not enough. You must go forward. Gradually complicate the work of the animal, increase the demands. If you have developed an action in the near park, go to the city streets. If you have coached a command of approach with the dog when it was calm and looked at you, move on to simulate beckoning of the animal in terms of distracting stimuli.
Discipline of your dog primarily depends on your own discipline. It is easy to get the animal to sit down before going over the carriageway. But it is hard to do this every time, independently on the fact that you hurry or not.
However, set the key rules of behavior in any given situation and always ask for their implementation. Having loosened the requirements once (allowing the dog go on the sofa, ignoring the failure of the team) you will quell the weeks of work.
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Jan 10, 2010 | | Personal Puppy Dog Tales
In order to understand the behavior of your dog better, you must correctly identify what it is motivated by. One of the most confusing moments is the aggression. The dog may growl at the cat while walking, bark at the casual passer-by, bark at the “Brothers in Mind” at the meeting. Some dogs may respond by grin, growl or bite at the owner’s attempting to take away a toy, food or even making dog go away from the sofa. In each of these cases we can see the aggressive behavior. How to control this aggression, should we promote or suppress it achieving the reaction that is desirable for you?
Aggression is associated with the greatest number of legends and “folk” methods, often leading to unpredictable results. English cocker, I helped to correct the dominant aggression of, risked losing its life because of such legends. A young veterinarian, having seen as the ten-puppy growls at the hosts during feeding, said that the dog had “an aggression gene” and it should be put to sleep. Otherwise, the doctor described the prospect of the whole family to be slaughtered at night… No more, no less. Dog was lucky – before the lulling, owners decided to consult a trainer.
To control aggression, it is necessary to know what it is called with, and what the purpose of your dog’s behavior is. Despite the similarity of its external manifestations, the aggression can be different. We can distinguish the types of it as follows.
Dominant aggression
This social behavior is related to hierarchical relationships in the troop. You have to understand that a dog, living in a human family, takes the laws of troop’s relationships for people. Therefore, the owner and relatives so as children may become the object of domination. Often happens, that the owner controls the dog, but the dominant aggression can manifest itself in relation to the often coming relatives. The dog knows these people and considers them as “its own”, but demonstrates its superiority, putting them in place.
Territorial aggression
This type of aggression is also connected with social behavior. But, unlike the previous type, this behavior is directed to members of other, competing troops. The growling and barking at a knock at the door, barking of passersby who walk near the frontage – all this is the territorial aggression. The same dog can be aggressive toward your friend at your home, and does not react to his appearance on the street. The key point of this type of aggression that it is manifested in its territory.
Defensive aggression
If the dog or members of its troop are in danger, the dog could show the protective aggression. Your pet may bark on furiously stranger while walking, if he behaves “suspiciously”: stops, looks at you, trying to get closer. All of these actions the dog sees as a direct threat, and can react to them aggressively. It should be noted that over the millennia of co-existence with the man specific reactions developed in the dogs that are not characteristic for wild animals. Thus, most dogs, even puppies aged react aggressively to a stranger carrying a bag in his hands or chest. This reaction is innate, dogs with such reactions are artificially chosen as the most “smart” ones.
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Jan 10, 2010 | | Personal Puppy Dog Tales
Barking is the natural way for dogs to express their emotions. With rare exception, dogs successfully open their mouth when they wish to please neighbours and guests, to welcome the “brothers on reason” and simply “for the good of their soul.” But in practice it is often necessary to open their mouth when it is necessary for trainer. Barking is not only a part of the training sport system, but it is used in applied work. For example, search and rescue dogs must denote the human finding with voice. Many special dogs have to bark at a laying. Besides that, the usual owners of dogs do not mind if their pet barks, when someone touches the door or gate in an apartment or in a private house.
To develop barking and make it aggressive, assertive and dependable is usually not a problem for the trainer. The greatest difficulty is precisely to develop the original conditioned reflex.
There are several methods how to develop the skill. Each of them is based on the use of certain reactions of behaviour.
1. Voice developing with the food motivation using
It is used when working with dogs with the prevailing food response behaviour. It should be noted that the food reaction quite flexibly varies depending on the condition of the dog. Thus, if the animal does not feed during last 12-24 hours, the food reaction will be strong even in dogs, calmly acting toward delicacies. Therefore, if other methods fail, try to work with a hungry dog, using a treat.
The technology of the skill’s development is simple. The main thing is to ensure inaccessibility of delicacies. The best way is to tie the leash to a tree, to work with a treat near the dog’s nose. The animal should not be free to run around you, as a dog in this case will try to get a treat. If your pet is tied, his nervous system will be overexcited and it may start barking.
2. Using of the Oporto subject
The method is applicable only for dogs with a high interest in Oportation. It is not necessary to tie the dog. Let your pet move freely, play with him, call the desire to grasp the object. You can work with the ball, with skill, with any object, which is the most interesting for dog. At the time when the dog is excited most, lift the object over the head and try to call the voice response. Do not wait, “revive” the object.
3. Using of active-defensive behaviour reaction
Some dogs bark well while protecting its territory. You can use this reaction. You will need an assistant for the exercises. Let your assistant appear in the territory the dog considers as its own one at the desired time. If necessary, let the assistant knock on the gate, make noise. Just reward the dog when it barks.
4. Mimetic method
You can also try to use mimetic method. As the main motivation the delicacy, Oporto object or assistant help, depending on the development of dog’s appropriate reaction of the behaviour. Once a well-trained dog barks, your pet will also institute and give the voice. You must encourage it at the same time.
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That is why if you are properly armed with the puppy training info you can rest assured that you will always find the solution to any bad situation. So, please make sure to get back to this blog on a regular basis or – an ideal solution for you – sign up to its RSS feed. Thus you will have your hand on the pulse of the freshest informational updates here. Blogs can be helpful, you just need to know how to use the achievements of the new era for your personal needs.
Jan 10, 2010 | | Personal Puppy Dog Tales
Nothing pleases trainer more then dog that is active, interested in Oporto and being in the mood for fighting the man. Interested persecution of a “prey”, absence of fear to struggle and the desire to work – all these qualities make it possible to introduce more complications easily and to lead a dog on all steps of protective training planned. But the learning process is never smooth. One of the problems that are often faced by the trainer is reluctance to slacken a bite (of a sleeve) under the “Give” command when needed.
It is known that not slackening under a command, for example, in the IPO, causes the same ruthless dismissing from a test as when there is no bite at all. But taking into consideration that the lack of bite may be caused by various causes, including congenital defects of a nervous system, not slackening under a command is a consequence of methodological and technical mistakes in dog training, which can and should be avoided.
Why a dog does not slacken the bite? This occurs because the protective training is conducted with a minimum inhibitory stimuli, the stimulation of the nervous system is maintained at a very high level. Figurant (or a trainer – dog owner, when the exercises are processed without assistance) encourages a bite, tightens the object to him and re-releases it then, making the dog compress the prey more and more harder. As a result, some dogs become overexcited, and the bite could become almost mortal. In this case, it may be quite problematic to get the dog to switch and throw the prey, and many inexperienced trainers are not able to manage with such a task.
Typically, in such cases, the dog throws a prey after a lengthy of “persuasion”, soothing strokes, and it happens after the natural decay of excitation. Teaching a dog to throw a prey “in a nice”, soothing and “persuading” it, you can not reach the main objective: to instantly switch from a state of excitation in the state of inhibition. In other words, the sleeve is not only thrown after the person involved has made a minimum resistance to the dog’s movement, but it will not be thrown quickly immediately after the command “Give!”
You can get a quick throwing of a sleeve only if the force of the stimulus impact that compel to do it is higher than the force of “prey” excitation. What specifically stimuli should be applied, depends on the individual characteristics of dogs. Following step is suitable for most of dogs.
1. Put the dog with a grip in the teeth left to your leg (due to excitation of the nervous system, the animal can be unruly with a voice, so make your pet sit with use of mechanical stimuli). This will make excitement a little bit less.
2. Take the grip with one hand, and on top of the jaw with another, tightly clutching the dog’s lips with your fingers.
3. Say “Give!” It is important that the command is sounded loudly and clearly.
4. After 1-2 seconds after the command have passed (note – not at once, but after a short pause) “open” the dog’s jaw with a sharp movement. Do it in one motion. You may have to cause pain in your pet. The main thing that the association is evolved in the dog: after 1-2 seconds after the command “Give” sharp unpleasant effects is used.
If it is done correctly, even in the most severe cases a dog starts throwing a grip after the command within three or four classes.
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That is why if you are properly armed with the puppy training information you can be sure that you will always find the solution to any bad situation. So, please make sure to track this site on a regular basis or – best of all – sign up to its RSS. Thus you will have your hand on the pulse of the freshest informational updates here. Blogging can be helpful, you just need to know how to use the achievements of the new era for your personal needs.
Jan 10, 2010 | | Personal Puppy Dog Tales
Before the talk about the shot fear correcting, you need to understand the causes of this phenomenon. As it is with any behavior, fear of the shot is formed under the influence of two main components:
innate predisposition;
experience gained
Under an innate predisposition, first and foremost the lack of effect of the nervous system should be understood. Excitability and mobility of the nervous system have its influence also, as well as the predominance of the orienting behavior reaction.
Gained experience is usually connected with fear of sudden and violent claps. Sometimes, the puppy suddenly falls under the fireworks or the firecracker is just broken beside. If the nervous system is most vulnerable currently (the dog is under a stress), that forms strong phobia.
There is no fear of shot that is caused only by negative experiences. Also there is not only an innate fear of shots. The innate predispositions and the negative impact should coincide.
That is to say, if your dog is afraid of shots, this means that it has a congenital disposition to this fear, and there was some case that served as the formation of such behavior.
Can I fix a fear of shots? With an innate component of this behavior to do anything is impossible. However, to change the negative consequences of the experience gained by the animal is within our reach. Depending on the strength of phobias, it may require different time and different efforts. It is impossible to remove the fear of strong sound stimuli completely, but it is absolutely real to weaken this fear. Simply put, if the dog panics when there are explosions of firecrackers at a distance of one hundred meters, animal would only be afraid of firecrackers, exploded a few meters away from it after the correction of the behavior. But for the majority of urban dog owners it will be happiness.
The method of shots fear correction is based on a very simple principle: in the different of its states, the nervous system responds differently to strong stimuli.
There is a condition when the dog is sensitive most. Remember how excited the dog is and how sensitively it reacts to the situation in the first few minutes of walk. But there are states in which the nervous system is not so much reacting to stimuli. These states are as follows:
physical fatigue;
game excitement (game with Oporto object);
work during the development of obedience skills
In addition, there is a force of sound, which the dog is not afraid of. If a firecracker explodes in ten meters, then the dog panics, in a hundred – it nervous, but from a distance of five hundred meters, the animal may simply not react. If hundred meters are not enough, you can withdraw per kilometer.
Schooling to explosions should be hold, having organized small classes. You need assistant, who will depart at a specified distance and explode firecrackers. It is important that he do it on your signal (for instance, when the hand is raised), and do not make explosions on its own.
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That is why if you are properly armed with the puppy training at home info you can rest assured that you will in any case find the way out from any bad situation. So, please make sure to visit this blog on a regular basis or – best of all – sign up to its RSS. In such an easy way you will have your hand on the pulse of the latest informational updates here. Blogs can be helpful, you just need to understand how to use the achievements of the new era for your personal needs.
Jan 10, 2010 | | Personal Puppy Dog Tales
One of the most efficient dog teaching techniques smaller dogs is prize training. Because strangle collars and other hostile forms of training are ineffective with little breeds like Pugs ,Poodles, and Pomeranian’s due to their small physical size, gift training has been usually used as an choice.
Reward training is one of the nearly all ordinary types of obedience teaching. It teaches dogs to assist with police force work and military occupation. This is also the way used over long stage to train dogs used in films and commercial. It is equally effective to assist your own pet master key orders in obedience.
Reward training only means a treat for your dog after a job well complete. Treats could mean a lot of things for your dog, may it be food or any substance or just a a small number of pats on the head or back.
You be capable of train your pet virtually the whole thing by means of rewards based dog guidance method. All you require is consistency in teaching, and your dog will finally do the preferred task and you will gift him directly after.
If you would like to train your dog to sit, you might try putting a treat on the top of his head and after that pushing it back extra until the dog decide to sit. When he does this, say the command “sit.” When the sit is talented you can admire him and donate him the treat. The dog will quickly relate the sitting act with the word “sit” and with the tasty reward!
If your desire is for your dog to do as he is told without the employ of voice commands, then you can get gain of the prize training method known as clicker training. A clicking sound is what your dog is trained to connect with his prize. When the dog does something good, the trainer will snap the clicker, and instantly pursue that with a treat. Over time, the clicker is all that will be vital for the dog to react.
If you have endurance and energy, you can teach your dog to make complex tricks and tasks by using prize instruction, a technique that is frequently used in the field of entertainment. Habitually, you can mold the dog’s performance by by means of a decoy. This decoy makes the dog to make the “trick” as if by his own free will. As soon as the dog do well at the task, his accomplishment is unbreakable with a gift. This is an outstanding way to teach a dog because it employs a “hands off” approach for the guide, so the dog retain a fine bond with his coach.
Using dog instruction system that are rewards based can be a great tactic to guide and attachment with your small pet without having to resort to harsh procedures that can injure your dog . This way you can be certain that your training time will be enjoyable for both you and your dog.
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Jan 02, 2010 | | Dog & Puppy Training
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